I’m more apt to focus on pie rather than cake at Thanksgiving, but a recent sample of the pumpkin sponge-cake roll from Atascocita’s family-owned Tin Roof BBQ has changed my mind.
This cylindrical cake is dreamy stuff: the light, soft sponge made with actual roasted pumpkin, not sludge from a can. It’s spread in a pan, baked until it's airy, and then rolled up with a sumptuous cream cheese frosting.
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The pumpkin spice is light on its feet, praise be; there’s not a surfeit of sugar masking the flavors; and the cream cheese adds just the right savory counterpoint to make the whole cake click.
Tin Roof BBQ
18918 Town Center Blvd., Humble, 281-852-5577
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 11 p.m.-10 p.m. Friday & Saturday; 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday
Hear Alison Cook, J.C. Reid and Greg Morago chat with Tin Roof BBQ’s Ronnie and Brek Webber on the latest episode of the Chronicle’s BBQ State of Mind podcast at houstonchronicle.com/bbqpodcast.
Only catch: it’s hard to stop at just one spiraled slice. I took home half a roll and proceeded to polish off the whole thing in less than 24 hours. I guess I should be mortified, but somehow I’m not.
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Tin Roof paterfamilias Ronnie Webber says they’ll be selling whole pumpkin rolls for $20 as long as he can get fresh pumpkins. You can order one — and a seasonal smoked turkey as well — by calling 281-852-5577. (If you want a complete bundled turkey dinner, place your order by this Sunday, November 18.)
Picking up your food here is part of the fun, so grab a burger or a sandwich and give yourself time to explore the rambling, eccentric collection of buildings that interlock to make up a latter-day Western compound.
Alison Cook is the Chronicle's James Beard Award-winning restaurant critic. Follow her on Twitter, and keep up with Houston's latest dining and drinking news and reviews by subscribing to our free Flavor newsletter.
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