It’s here! Dungeness crab season! We wait all year, fretting over the neurotoxins that delayed two of the last three commercial crab seasons. But here in the San Francisco, Monterey and Half Moon Bay regions, where the commercial crab season opened Nov. 15, we can rejoice and look forward to a winter of crustacean delights ahead.

Now Carmel Valley chef Cal Stamenov is sharing his crab-cake secrets. Stamenov brings a European culinary sensibility and a passion for seasonal, local ingredients to the Lucia restaurant at the Bernardus Lodge & Spa. “For me, crab cakes are a seasonal treat,” he says. “It heralds the turn of the season and all the wonderful flavors that go with it. We’re so fortunate along the coast here to have such an abundance. The Dungeness is a true star.”

Stamenov has a few tricks and tips up his sleeve:

For the freshest crab, he says, “buy it from your local seafood market, take it home and crack it yourself! Go heavy on the lump meat, which is more succulent than the leg meat, and keep it as whole as possible. A dozen crabs equal about one pound.”

Be careful with the accompaniments, he says: “Make sure the crab is the star of the show; don’t pair it with something that competes or has a diverse flavor profile. We pair it with butternut squash, which is an ideal foil, giving the crab its 15 minutes.”

Fresh lemon is a classic finishing touch for Dungeness, but Stamenov ups the brightness factor with a Meyer lemon emulsion — an easy, three-ingredient sauce. “The lemon emulsion is key,” he says. “Make sure to use Meyer lemon, which is sweeter. I reduce it by half over medium heat to add intensity. Add lemon zest for a bit more bang.”

Lucia’s Crab Cakes with Roasted Butternut Squash

Serves 4

Dungeness Crab Cakes:

½ cup olive oil mayonnaise

1 egg, beaten

1 teaspoon Tabasco

1 pound crab meat

2 celery stalks, finely diced

1 shallot, minced

¼ cup parsley, coarsely chopped

15-ounces Japanese breadcrumbs, divided use

Salt and pepper to taste

Roasted butternut squash (see below)

Meyer lemon emulsion (see below)

Olive oil for cooking

Directions:

  1. In a large bowl, whisk together the mayo, egg and Tabasco until combined. Add crab meat, celery, shallots, parsley, 3 tablespoons breadcrumbs and salt and pepper. Gently fold mixture together until combined.
  2. Divide crabmeat into 4 sections and form patties. Coat each crab cake in remaining breadcrumbs. Refrigerate.
  3. Heat oven to 350 degrees.
  4. Add enough olive oil to an oven-safe saute pan to cover the bottom and set over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add crab cakes and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until golden brown. Flip crab cakes and place in oven for 15 minutes.
  5. To serve, cut butternut squash into quarters. Place one crab cake and one squash quarter on each plate. Garnish with mixed greens and drizzle with Meyer lemon emulsion.

Roasted Butternut Squash:

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Cut one butternut squash in half lengthwise and remove seeds. Season with salt and pepper. Place on sheet pan, cut-side down and roast for 45 minutes, until golden brown.

Meyer Lemon Emulsion:

In a small saucepan, bring ½ cup fresh Meyer lemon juice to a boil and reduce by half. Transfer to a small bowl, then whisk in 1 egg yolk and slowly add ½ cup olive oil, whisking constantly to emulsify.