WHILE Americans firmly associate roses with Valentine’s Day, for much of the world, particularly the Middle East, they are a year-long pantry staple in the form of rose water, rose syrup, rose jam and dried or candied rose petals. Rose can be found in everything from baklava, nougat and Turkish delight to the fiery condiment harissa and spice mix ras-el-hanout, from North Africa. It perfumes teas in England, macarons in France and the yogurt drink lassi in India.

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Come September, I find myself reaching for all things rose in the kitchen, as if to trick myself into believing summer will never end. And I continue to bake, mix cocktails and cook with rose through the winter for its reminder of sunnier days.

Before you go and pick petals off the nearest bouquet, there are a few things to consider. Most roses we buy at florists have been sprayed with pesticides, making them unsafe to eat. This is true of most nurseries as well. If you want to use fresh petals, get them from a gardener you trust or grow your own.

I find myself reaching for all things rose, as if to trick myself into believing summer will never end.

My rose water of choice is made by Mymouné in Lebanon and available online from Kalustyan’s (foodsofnations.com). For rose syrup, sweetened and thicker than rose water, I turn to the one from L’Epicerie de Provence, available from the Rare Tea Cellar (rareteacellar.com). These products have a purity of taste and approximate the immediate sensation of smelling a rose. If I want something more concentrated, I use a few drops of the rose water made by Nielsen-Massey (nielsenmassey.com). While called rose water, it is closer to an extract in potency.

Rose water is stronger than you might imagine. Start sparingly and add to taste. If, like me, you are a bit rose-obsessed, you might find yourself stirring it into drinking water, morning yogurt and berry smoothies. I’ll also add rose liqueur to Champagne, drizzle rose syrup over vanilla ice-cream and strawberries, and grind dried rose petals to sprinkle over rice pudding. In a pinch, when I’ve no time to spare but still want to serve dessert, I’ll warm dates in the oven, drizzle them with good olive oil and rose water, and finish with a sprinkle of orange zest and flaky Maldon sea salt.

Rose and cardamom are a classic and very happy pairing. They flavor the simple cake recipe at right, which can be decorated with fresh, dried or candied petals. And Jessica Backhus, drinks manager at Delaney Oyster House in Charleston, S.C., mixes both a non-alcoholic lemonade and a strawberry-flavored take on a classic Clover Club cocktail with the rose-cardamom combo. Pistachio is another ingredient frequently combined with rose. In his cookbook “Falastin,” chef Sami Tamimi includes semolina squares flavored with these plus lime and coconut.

Even as the days grow cooler, these recipes conjure the fragrance of summer gardens in full bloom. It’s a good time to stop and smell it.

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