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The Telegraph

Adventure and ancient history on a family holiday in overlooked Istria

Suddenly, there was a loud yelp from over my shoulder. It was the sort of sound that combines any number of the feelings that define six-year-olds. Giddy enthusiasm. The joy of a discovery. The impermeable certainty that, surely, nobody else in the entire history of humanity had ever made a finding such as this. An utter disbelief that what was definitely one of those tall stories that fathers like to tell had proved to be true. For there was my son Hal, on the very edge of Veliki Brijun, where the biggest of the Brijuni islands pushes a firm shoulder into the Adriatic – pointing at a shape chiselled into the rocks, and hopping from leg to leg, as if his trainers were on fire. It was what we had been seeking for the past 10 minutes, and it was unmistakable. Toes. Claws. Wide instep. A large dinosaur footprint. It was a moment that would be exciting even in ordinary circumstances. But amid the strangeness and fragility of August 2020, it felt like a happy ending of sorts – a pirate’s treasure chest dug up on a secluded beach; an ancient artefact unearthed, Indiana Jones-style, at the dusty climax to a lengthy quest. In relative terms, we had not travelled very far to reach this small archipelago, which sits just off the west flank of Istria – the peninsula that provides Croatia with its north-westerly conclusion. But with its obligatory face masks, frequent handwashing and palpable nervousness – even (and especially) during the near-three-hour flight to Pula from Gatwick – our journey into the Balkan summer resembled more a daring odyssey than a simple exercise in fly-and-flop. Sighting a fragment of a long-disappeared world at the end of it seemed oddly appropriate. Not that Istria could be described as a “long-disappeared” anything, even in the grip of one of the worst pandemics in the course of a century. Croatia has grown exponentially in popularity with British tourists over the past two decades, and even if the peninsula does not pull in the weight of numbers generally welcomed by Dubrovnik or some sections of the Dalmatian Coast, it has become a trusted destination for a week or two in the sun. Nor is it only holidaymakers from the UK who appreciate its charms. We decamped to a villa in Valica – a village in the uppermost reaches of the Istrian land mass, just outside the barely bigger seafront town of Umag. From our poolside veranda, we could practically see the European map, sketched out for our benefit – Slovenia just two miles to the north, where the countryside slopes down to the Gulf of Piran; Italy waiting just 20 miles beyond, where Trieste steps out of Alpine shadows. This meeting of borders was visible on our first evening, when we wandered down to eat in the “centre” of the village.

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