‘Baking is in my blood,’ says owner of Middletown’s new Cake, Batter and Roll - Middletown Press

MIDDLETOWN — Despite launching her new bakery, Cake, Batter and Roll, during the pandemic, Lindsey Chartrand has found great success in an unexpected way.

“Everything has a little bit of a silver lining,” said Chartrand, who launched a food truck in 2019. When breweries were required to offer food instead of just beer, her customer base grew, so much so that Chartrand was able to leave her day job.

“Between the rules changing, people wanting to support small businesses and it being outside so it’s safer, I did very well,” she said.

Because of the popularity of the truck, Chartrand knew launching a brick-and-mortar storefront could lead to endless possibilities. It opened Dec. 22, at 124 College St.

The handheld Liege waffles, with traditional breakfast and savory options, required an imported waffle maker. Soon customers began seeking her out, Chartrand said. The waffles are made from yeast dough, rather than a traditional pancake batter, and contain pearl sugar, which caramelizes when cooked.

Chartrand also offers sandwiches and salads, and, soon, protein bowls.

Her endeavor is booming, something Chartrand attributes to Middletown being a great place for small businesses, she said. Plus, opening just before the holidays drew many customers.

Chartrand, who most recently worked for Butchers & Bakers in Farmington, has been in the restaurant business for 26 years, and is from a long line of at-home bakers and farmers.

“It’s in my blood,” she said. “It was off-the-land” in upper New York state. “They didn’t have grocery stores local to them, they grew their own vegetables, they raised their own meat, and they made their own breads and everything else from scratch all the time,” Chartrand said.

Most of her recipes have been passed down from aunts and cousins, including the coffee cakes, her biggest seller.

Chartrand’s sister is a big fan of crime stories and podcasts, which has inspired their upcoming line of “Cereal Killers,” made with cereal milk, with various flavors such as Golden Grahams. One of the pastries will be called the “Ted Bunty.”

“We love puns,” she said.

Employee Selda Radoncic worked with Chartrand at Butchers & Bakers.

“I was always inspired by Lindsey because she worked hard during her food truck days,” Radoncic said. “It was nice seeing her being able to open up a store after two years on the food truck.”

Radoncic has been impressed by how nice customers are in Middletown, she said. “I’ve been in food service for over 10 years. I’ve never met people so kind.”

And, “they’re telling people,” Chartrand said about word-of-mouth business. One of the first cakes made at the bakery was vegan. When the host told friends where it came from, they wanted to know where the place was, so they sent customers her way, Chartrand said. “People are definitely spreading the word.”

Chartrand’s favorites are the cinnamon swirl bread and salted Nutella bars. “Those are spot-on,” she said of the latter. The bread has become a customer favorite, the owner said. “We had to quickly up our par on that, because since the beginning, people started to come in for that.”

“Go big or go home,” Chartrand said of about her supersized portions. “It becomes a talking point. It becomes a way to remember here — something unique to us,” she said.

A number of her creations are gluten- and dairy-free, and vegan. It’s hard to discern the difference between these and other pastries made from traditional recipes, Chartrand said. “People come in and get the M&M brownies and they have no idea.”

Friday and Saturday, the bakery was sold out of the gluten-free items by 9 a.m., she said.

Baker Kristin Tyler was among the first applicants for the job. Chartrand hired her right away, knowing she was a great fit for the bakery. “We matched,” Chartrand said.

“I am able to explore different flavors, be super creative with what I make. Lindsey pretty much gives me a shape and says, ‘Here you go. Do what you want,’” said Tyler, who created the Nutella bar. “Everyone loves salt, and everyone loves sweets, so we put them together. It’s a win-win.”

“There was a whole lot of tasting those first couple weeks, but we’re trying to minimize the tasting,” of these indulgences, Chartrand said.

The shops also sells homemade dog treats, with proceeds donated to a new charity every month, Chartrand said. Other items include vegan butter, made from scratch, to go along with various breads, such as French baguettes.

This weekend, Cake Batter and Roll will be baking vegan pumpkin mead bread in partnership with Middletown’s Bergen House meadery, located at the former trolley house on lower Main Street.

The Middlesex County Chamber of Commerce is holding a grand opening there Friday, according to President Larry McHugh, who said he’s pleased Cake, Batter and Roll has opened, especially considering the pandemic. “It’s a tough time to open a business and we wish them all the best,” he said.

Hours are 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, and 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on weekends. Thursday and Friday, the bakery is open until 4 p.m. For information, see the Cake, Batter & Roll Facebook page or visit cbrbakery.com.

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