Grim's Grub: A tale of two cakes - Pine and Lakes Echo Journal

The United States is responsible for creating several of these families; the chiffon cake is just one. It is defined by the use of whole eggs and abundant vegetable oil to define its texture, color and taste.

But there are some cakes that sit on a lofty pedestal high above the average chiffon or sponge cake, and one of them happens to be divine.

There was a cake born many years ago that was fated to be leavened by whipping and pale due to a lack of egg yolks, and not weighed down by the addition of butter or oil, unlike most cakes. It was in 1839 when the precursor to this cake was first published in "The Kentucky Housewife" as a "foam cake," an apt name only second to its true name.

Where many baked goods depend on yeast or baking soda to produce a leavening effect, this foam cake requires a mechanical leavening effect. The egg whites must be beaten to stiff peaks that trap the air into a type of meringue batter.

This cake is not properly served in a standard cake pan either; no, it must be molded almost like Jell-O into a ring that allows the meringue to rise high without a dip in the middle. This hole also provides a space for fillings.

The important ring pans were first produced in Pennsylvania in the early 1800s, suggesting the cake existed even before its first appearance in the above mentioned recipe book. For many years this cake would have been too difficult for the average home to make; however, because of the speed and amount of time it required to beat the egg whites into stiff peaks with nothing but a hand whisk.

In 1870, Turner Williams created the hand-cranked rotary beater we all know and love today.Photo illustration, Shutterstock, Inc.

In 1870, Turner Williams created the hand-cranked rotary beater we all know and love today, eliminating that challenge almost completely.

Today, these fluffy cakes can be made with an electric mixer, but it's easy to say the end product is truly angelic. Years later, however, there would come yet another, darker cake.

Another creation of U.S. bakers, this cake was made later and published in the 1902 "Mrs. Rorer’s New Cook Book," by Sarah Tyson Rorer. To the untrained eye there isn't much to set this cake aside from a standard chocolate cake, but to others it is the devilish rival to the lighter cake from Kentucky.

It is almost the exact opposite of the above recipe. It does depend, in part, on whipped egg whites for its texture, but then this rebellious cake breaks the rules. It has egg yolks because it doesn't need to be pale white. It has butter because it doesn't depend on manual leavening to provide all of its airy texture, and it has baking powder because whipped egg whites are too weak to stand up to rich, heavy butter, egg yolks and melted chocolate, darker than the night.

That is part of what sets it aside from the average chocolate cake, the whipped egg whites and the use of real melted chocolate instead of powdered chocolate, though modern recipes often blur those lines even further. Regardless, done right, this cake is so rich it's almost devilish.

Angel Food Cake

(White sponge cake)

Adapted from the 1939 "The Kentucky Housewife"

20 egg whites
1 pound powdered sugar
Juice and rind of a lemon
Juice of two small oranges
3/4 pound fine flour

Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks like a meringue, then stir it hard as you mix in the sugar followed by the lemon juice and rind and the orange juice. Once these are smoothly mixed, fold in or gently mix in the flour. Put this into a 10-inch ring pan and use a rubber spatula to flatten the bottom. If you end up with extra, you can use it to make cupcakes. Bake at 325 degrees for 40-45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Serve this with strawberries in a light syrup and whipped cream.

Devil's Food Cake

Adapted from the 1902 "Mrs. Rorer’s New Cook Book"

1/2 cup of milk
4 ounces of dark chocolate
1/2 cup of butter
3 cups of pastry flour
1 1/2 cups of sugar
4 eggs, separated
2 teaspoons of baking powder
Soft icing
1 cup chopped nuts

In a double boiler, mix the chocolate and a half cup of milk. Cook until smooth and thick and let stand to cool. Beat the egg whites into soft peaks and set aside. Beat a half cup of butter to a cream and add 1 1/2 cups of sugar and the yolks of four eggs gradually. Beat until light and smooth. Sift together the pastry flour and baking powder, then mix the chocolate and flour mixtures to the beaten egg mixture. Beat thoroughly for at least five minutes. Next, mix in the beaten egg whites. Bake in three or four layers at 350 degrees for approximately 30 to 35 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. When combining the layers, use soft icing with chopped nuts between each layer and over the top.

Travis Grimler may be reached at 218-855-5853 or travis.grimler@pineandlakes.com. Follow him on Facebook and on Twitter at www.twitter.com/@PEJ_Travis.

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