When it comes to chocolate cake, I’ve always preferred light and fluffy over rich and dense. When my husband and I married, I wanted a chocolate wedding cake (with peanut butter frosting!), and after sampling a decadently dense bakery option, I told my mom I’d rather have her make a Duncan Hines cake.
She vetoed that idea.
Years later, after being uninspired by flourless cakes on many a restaurant menu, the following recipe changed my preconceived notions after the first dreamy bite. More creamy than dense, this unleavened cake offers wide appeal. The deep chocolate flavor is decidedly darker than milk chocolate but not at all bitter. Even better, it’s super easy to make and offers a perfect ending to a romantic Valentine’s Day dinner — or any other special occasion.
Interestingly enough, this recipe owes a lot to my older son John’s college choice. When he decided to make Hanover, New Hampshire, his home away from home for the next four years, many people mentioned his proximity to King Arthur Flour’s flagship store. (For those who aren’t familiar, King Arthur Flour is a purveyor of flour, baking mixes, cookbooks and kitchen supplies, and it runs a popular baking school across the river from Hanover in Norwich, Vermont.)
Naturally, we stopped by on our first official visit, and as I chatted with a helpful employee (who noticed me lingering in the chocolate aisle), I inquired as to her favorite King Arthur recipe. Without hesitation, she uttered the words “flourless chocolate cake.” Her conviction was such that I felt compelled to try the recipe soon after.
This cake is rich, decadent (but not overly so), and not in the least bit dry. For an unleavened cake, it seems somehow light. It’s incredibly easy to make, and the simple two-ingredient glaze is the crowning glory. A thin sliver will satisfy a serious chocolate craving — yet I must admit that a large piece goes down rather easily.
Note that the recipe calls for an 8-inch cake pan, as a 9-inch pan results in a too-thin cake. It also incorporates espresso powder. This enhances the chocolatey flavor but in a pinch could be omitted. Additionally, the original recipe specifically recommends dutch-process cocoa powder over regular, but I wondered if this was truly necessary.
So what’s the difference between regular and dutch-process cocoa powder, and why does it matter?
Regular cocoa is simply natural powder from roasted cocoa beans. It’s bitter and acidic and is usually paired with recipes calling for baking soda. Because baking soda is a base, the two react and cause a baked good to rise.
With dutch-process cocoa powder, the cocoa beans are washed in an alkaline solution. This processing creates a smoother, less astringent flavor and a dark, almost black, color (think Oreo cookies). The wash neutralizes the acidity of the beans, which means they won’t react with baking soda. Therefore, recipes that rely on dutch-process cocoa powder usually call for baking powder, which includes an acid component.
You can use either type of cocoa powder in recipes that don’t require baking soda or baking powder — for example, hot cocoa, frosting, ice cream, pudding, etc. If there’s no leavening occurring, it won’t matter. You may choose based on personal taste preference or possible desire to use the less-processed option.
Because there’s no leavening agent in the following cake, I knew that rise wasn’t a factor. But would the flavor be significantly different? Because I tend to have just one type of cocoa powder in my cupboard (my standby is Hershey’s regular cocoa powder, which has been used in countless Fulton family birthday cakes), I figured many of you would likely be in the same boat.
The first time I made this cake, I followed the recipe to the letter — that meant buying a container of dutch-process cocoa powder. The end result was perfection. But ideally, I wanted to offer the flexibility to use whichever variety you have on hand. So I risked a less-than-perfect outcome and added regular cocoa powder the second time around.
Was the flavor slightly smoother with the recommended dutch-process cocoa? Maybe so. Yet it was honestly hard to discern a difference. I did make the cakes over time, so the comparison wasn’t side-by-side. Still, nobody complained.
The moral of the story: If you have dutch-process chocolate, by all means use it. If you only have regular, there’s no need to buy something different. Either way, this recipe, which I have lightly adapted, might just find its way into your entertaining bag of tricks. It’s in mine!
Have questions or comments about Ann Fulton’s column? Check out her blog at fountainavenuekitchen.com or at facebook.com/thefountainavenuekitchen. She also welcomes email at ann@fountainavenuekitchen.com.
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